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Excerpted from The Reluctant Metrosexual
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Here, honey, put this in your billfold,” my mother said
as she walked out of the shirt store, handing me a ticket
to a Vivaldi concert we were to attend that evening at
a well-known Roman garden and museum. “In case we get
separated and have to meet you at the Villa Borghese.
And please, dear, don't lose it.”
By “billfold” she meant, of course, wallet. My mother
still uses many words considered old-fashioned, like “icebox” instead
of “refrigerator,” or “picture show” instead of “movie
theater.” But she is not trying to be ironic or clever.
It is a Southern thing.
“You know, there's a funny story about my wallet,” I
said, putting my arm around her shoulder as we walked
toward the Piazza del Popolo. “Let's go for a coffee
and I'll tell you about it.”
What my mother would soon learn was that I was, in fact,
traveling without a wallet, so I had no place to put
the ticket for safekeeping. My wallet had been lost.
Well, technically it had been misplaced, but that distinction
would do me little good in the conversation that would
surely ensue.
What had been my last known wallet was conveniently
left in the backseat of a cab the day before I was to
depart from New York. I blame this on the fact that I
was burdened by an armful of shopping bags packed with
the sorts of items one always seems to acquire before
going abroad (or, I imagine, to war)—travel-sized toiletries,
electrical converters, guidebooks, chewing gum, batteries.
In my haste I had left it on the faux-leather seat, a
sacrifice to the travel gods or, if nothing else, a windfall
for the two guys who jumped in as I was exiting.
Leaving a wallet in the back of a New York City taxicab
is like throwing it into the Grand Canyon, except for
the fact that under the Grand Canyon scenario, there
is still the off chance that an honest, donkey-riding
tour guide may find, recover, and return the lost item.
Thankfully, apart from the five hundred euros (about
$600) I had recently exchanged, my flight itinerary,
and two Ambien tablets tucked safely away in an inner
fold (jet-lag-reducing velvet hammers in handy ten-milligram
doses), nothing of any real value was lost. It was also
fortunate that I would be leaving for a foreign country
in less than twelve hours, where conveniences such as
credit/bank cards and various forms of legal identification
rarely prove necessary.
The immediacy of my travel plans left me no choice but
to withdraw an obscene amount of cash (using the temporary,
nameless ATM card the bank provides until the replacement
arrives, which always makes me feel like a kid who transferred
to a new school in the middle of the year and has to
use a shelf to store his belongings, all of the regular
lockers having long since been distributed) and to bundle
it, together with my passport and several scraps of information-bearing
Post-it notes, into a large wad, held together with a
medium-sized binder clip (I have an obsessive stockpile
of office supplies, as they are the closest I have come
to an actual office in some time). As I finished telling
my mother the story I pulled the bulky contraption from
my front pocket, adding the concert ticket to the fist-sized
bundle.
“Oh, Peter, you can't travel around
Italy like that. You look like some kind of Las Vegas
hoodlum,” she said.
“Yeah, well do you know who I am?” I mock-shouted back,
shaking my first. “I'm Moe Green! You can't come into
my casino and talk to me that way. I was making my bones
while you were banging cheerleaders!”
“I don't know what on earth you're talking about, dear,” she
answered, missing my clever Godfather movie reference
by a mile. “But walking around like that is not safe.
They're liable to rob you.”
I am not sure who “they” are (or what sort of sinister
methods “they” employ), but this is how, in addition
to two ungarish handmade dress shirts from Marcello,
the shopping excursion on my first full day in Rome also
yielded a brown single-fold calfskin wallet (on my mother's
watch, black leather is generally forbidden, reminding
her, as it does, of Vegas hoodlums and the like).
The concert went off without the loss
of ticket or any other sort of hitch (if attending a
pitch-perfect open-air concert in Rome on a triple date
with your parents can be considered hitchless) and it
gave me an occasion to wear one of the new shirts.
“This is a wonderful weight, son,” my father had said,
caressing the sleeve of my shirt as we waited for my
mother, before the concert. My father has spent a good
portion of his married life waiting for my mother, and
I was happy to provide him the company. It is possible
that I will travel through Italy with him again, passing
the time talking about world affairs and European fashions
in a hotel lobby, but it is not guaranteed. Such moments
are best not taken for granted.
His opinion of the shirt's weight was
a significant affirmation of my purchase. Clothing weight,
to my father, is serious business. A suit's measure of
greatness, for him, lies not only in its cut or tailoring
but also in the heft of the fabric. The Holy Grail is a suit that earns the
privilege of becoming a “year-rounder”—that is, light enough to breathe comfortably
in the summer months but with ample girth to get its wearer through a winter
in the Great Lakes region. Some men bond while foraging through the woods
in search of large animals to shoot. We buy suits. It may lack the quest
for blood of an old-fashioned father-son deer hunting excursion, but as Jews,
we don't tend toward activities that involve camouflage and high-powered
munitions. On the plus side, our hobby requires no permits, and there are
far fewer accidental casualties.
So, dressed in a properly weighted Italian dress shirt,
I bade farewell to my parents after the concert and prepared
to lay siege upon the Eternal City. I knew that, mathematically
speaking, in a city with a population of several million,
my chances of bumping into the shopgirl were almost nil,
and that even if, by some random quirk, I did see her,
I had lost so much face in the store that, apart from
providing material for her potential stand-up career,
any encounter would have little impact.
Yet out into that great, dark night I ventured. For
as we all know, there are certain ideas that exceed rational
thought. Destiny, love, the hope that Joan Rivers will
move to an island without any access to television cameras—none
of these make sense intellectually, yet they are often
the seeds of our most important dreams.
The potential of an encounter is what drove me out in
search of the shopgirl (okay, it is possible that pure
physical attraction was involved as well). For what if
we were fated to be together? What if, upon seeing each
other under the moonlit sky at the Trevi Fountain, we
were drawn together, compelled by the sobering beauty
of Neptune and his mythical counterparts toward a romantic
union? What if we were to fall in love and have beautiful,
golden-brown children who had dual citizenships and a
passion for soccer? And finally, what if, instead of
bumping into the shopgirl, I found myself in a drunken
stupor at 2 a.m. , lost and alone, having wandered into
a dark neighborhood where nobody spoke my mother tongue?
Of these four questions, I can only answer the last
one: I would eventually find a ride back to my hotel
with a police officer, having recently been involved
in a minor scuffle at a jazz bar. And upon my entering
the hotel, the desk clerk would be kind enough to point
out the large, rose-colored stain that adorned the middle
third of my shirt. And while he would not be able to
identify the exact vintage of the wine that I now wore
(a 1997 Solaia), he would know without any further inspection
that the shirt was beyond repair. His eyes and his nodding
head would say it all: Wearing an Italian dress shirt
is an honor, my son, and you have desecrated that sacred
trust. Luckily, I was too drunk to care or do much more
than stumble up to my room.
The next day, when I went back to Marcello to replace
the shirt, the shopgirl was not there. In her stead was
a young man. He was well dressed and eager to help, and
I'm sure that he will go far in the haberdashery business,
if he chooses this path. But I did not require any assistance.
I had come back to the store with two very specific goals
in mind, only one of which I was able to achieve.
Most times, we don't find the girl again. But we do keep
our eyes open, watching for her to turn up at a cocktail
party or exit a crowded subway stop in the early evening.
And because we carry the faint tremor of possibility in
our hearts, we try always to wear a clean, properly weighted
dress shirt, on the off chance that she does reappear.
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